Little Delving
Beyond Here There Be Dragons
Southern Comfort
Feb 28, 2007 04:45 PM Filed in:
On The Road
Another
place I would love to visit someday in the not too distant future
is Savannah, Georgia. I can't remember when it was I first became
curious about the city, but I do remember reading a long time ago
that Savannah was one of the few large cities of the Deep South to
escape major damage during the Civil War. Because of this good
fortune much of the original ante-bellum architecture still stands
in the city along with many of its original parks and public
squares and of course many ancient and majestic Live Oak trees
covered with spanish moss. It seems the perfect place to take a
small step back in time and experience a little southern charm. I
would love to do that sometime.
Here's a Savannah article that I ran across a while back and had stashed away for future reference. Enjoy!
JB
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Eating
Like A Local In Savannah
By Jacqueline Fitzgerald
Chicago Tribune
July 2, 2006
SAVANNAH, Ga. -- This is a city of delight, not discipline, so when dining, you might as well give in to temptation.
There are other enticements galore--charming old homes and carriage houses, grand buildings with classical porticos, pediments and pillars, jasmine-scented breezes and trees trimmed in Spanish moss.
A visit here, as "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil" author John Berendt wrote, "is like strolling through the rooms of an elegant, open air mansion."
But wandering the streets and squares, you can't help noticing all the opportunities to eat. You can sample pecan candy and peanut brittle at stores along the river. You'll want to visit River Street, and try some of this port city's great seafood. If this is a first-time visit, you're pretty much obliged to stroll through the City Market area, a.k.a. Tourist Central. And it's hard to miss the lines outside Paula Deen's The Lady & Sons, which specializes in down-home Southern cuisine and is a magnet for out-of-towners.
I had been to Savannah before, but this time on a five-day visit I had come to eat--like a local. Amid my own explorations, I decided to ask Savannah citizens for their recommendations.
Antiques dealer Alex Raskin, whose store is at 441 Bull St., got me started ("I have very definite opinions").
For special occasions, he and his wife, a Philly native who lived in Chicago before meeting Raskin, go to Elizabeth on 37th Street.
I was already acquainted with this restaurant, formerly a turn-of-the-century mansion, and my meal there was--sorry to gush, but it's true--one of the best I've ever eaten. The menu changes seasonally and puts fresh twists on traditional favorites such as honey-roasted pork tenderloin or coastal grouper with a sesame-almond crust and peanut sauce. Even if you don't have time to eat an entire meal here, be sure to stop in for a dessert, the most famous being the cream cake.
Elizabeth
is listed in "1,000 Places to See Before You Die" by Patricia
Schultz (as is Mrs. Wilkes' Dining Room, serving classic Southern
comfort food, which I didn't get a chance to
visit).
Raskin also enjoys Walls' Bar-B-Que--"the sine qua non of African-American cooking" -- where he orders the deviled crab.
Wall's was a bit tricky to find, but getting there will acquaint you with the city's lanes, which are not to be confused with alleys. Somehow I expected the crab to have more of a flavorful kick, but the service was relaxed and friendly.
Farther off the tourist trail, Raskin pointed me to the United House of Prayer for All People's Masada Cafe, a church cafe with staples such as baked or fried chicken, dressing, string beans, and macaroni and cheese.
My energy was flagging a bit, so instead of making the trek to Masada, I followed the advice of Raskin's colleague Juliet Bell, who sent me to the Firefly Cafe, a low-key, quiet spot with only a few other diners. There I decided to cut back on calories and went for a tuna salad with Granny Smith apples, red onions, celery and pecans.
Bell also steered me to the Sentient Bean coffee house, where I stopped in for a cold hibiscus-mint tea.
On my own, I was drawn to an old building with stained glass windows that used to be a pharmacy and has been revamped as the Gryphon Tea Room, where I sipped hot Formosa tea and almost finished a fat slice of coconut cake.
And I found another good spot for a sugar high: the retro-looking Leopold's Ice Cream, which opened in 1919. Locals including the likes of Johnny Mercer (he grew up nearby) long have cooled their palates here. Try a scoop of tutti-frutti, peppermint or rose petal.
Students are always good sources for cheap meals and deals. I met Ryan Finnerty, artist and recent graduate of the Savannah College of Art and Design, at the bar of the Moon River Brewing Co., a good venue to grab a bite. Burgers, brats and fried fish filets are a few of the many sandwich choices.
"I'm a big fan of the specials at Queeny's," he said, referring me to the casual soul-food spot. I didn't get a chance to go to Queeny's but found that their fare includes fried chicken, fried shrimp and grouper tacos with sides such as okra and tomatoes, cucumber and onions, and collard greens.
On the other end of the price scale, Robert Morris, director of external affairs for the Georgia Ports Authority, and Elaine Longwater, president of the marketing firm Longwater & Co., both recommended the Sapphire Grill.
Sapphire Grill is a swank supper spot that manages to be both chic and cozy. Because I wanted a light meal, I opted for a glass of wine and a few appetizers: foie gras with rambutan ice cream and banana jam, followed by pan-fried mussels with champagne and caviar. Forgoing an entree is good strategy because it means you have room for dessert--in this case, strawberry shortcake with lavender/almond ice cream.
You can also employ that strategy at The Olde Pink House. A bed-and-breakfast staffer sent me to this 18th Century gem on my last trip, but I'd only had time for a drink. This time I ordered the she-crab soup and pecan pie at the downstairs tavern, instead of the main dining room, and heard longtime pianist/vocalist Gail Thurmond, who entertains there Tuesdays through Sundays.
Savannahians are big on breakfast, and perhaps one of the most famous eateries is Clary's Cafe, where "Midnight" author Berendt struck up a friendship with the glam chanteuse Lady Chablis. An omelet with ham, cheese, onion and green pepper comes with grits, more cheese and a piping-hot biscuit.
On my last morning, though I had run out of dining time, I was still getting advice. After brioche French toast and bacon at Soho South Cafe, a converted garage that also houses an art gallery, I was lingering over my third cup of coffee when a Daisy Buchanan-lookalike in an elegant white hat and long strands of pearls joined me at the breakfast bar.
As swing tunes floated in the background, I learned that her name was McBrier Maloney.
She urged me to get out of town--to one of the relaxed eateries on Savannah's neighboring islands, such as AJ's on Tybee Island.
Maloney also suggested the contemporary Southern cuisine at 700 Drayton, part of the Mansion on Forsyth Park hotel that is also home to Casimir's, a hip lounge that specializes in martinis.
Later that day, the Mansion on Forsyth Park became my last stop before my flight home. Dropping in to escape the heat, I had time for only a drink at Casimir's, but if I'd stayed for dinner, I could have ordered off the 700 Drayton menu and had Maryland crab cake with sauteed shrimp and tasso gumbo over a corn waffle with leek and bourbon cream.
But that's for next time. And I'll have plenty of inside advice on where to go.
IF YOU GO: THE RESTAURANTS
Elizabeth on 37th Street, 105 E. 37th St.; 912-236-5547; Main courses from $23.
Mrs. Wilkes' Dining Room (lunch Monday-Friday only), 107 W. Jones St.; 912-232-5997.
Walls' Bar-B-Que, 515 E. York Lane; 912-232-9754.
Masada Cafe (United House of Prayer for All People), 2301 W. Bay St.; 912-236-9499.
Firefly Cafe, 321 Habersham St.; 912-234-1971.
Sentient Bean, 13 E. Park Ave.; 912-232-4447.
Gryphon Tea Room, 337 Bull St.; 912-525-5880.
Leopold's Ice Cream, 212 E. Broughton St.; 912-234-4442.
Moon River Brewing Co., 21 W. Bay St.; 912-447-0943.
Queeny's to Go Go, 1611 Habersham St.; 912-443-0888.
Sapphire Grill, 110 W. Congress St.; 912-443-9962; Main courses from $25.
The Olde Pink House, 23 Abercorn St.; 912-232-4286. Main courses from $14.95.
Clary's Cafe,
404 Abercorn St.; 912-233-0402.
Soho South Cafe, 12 W. Liberty St.; 912-233-1633.
AJ's Dockside Restaurant, 1315 Chatham Ave., Tybee Island; 912-786-9533. Main courses from $14.95.
700 Drayton Restaurant/Casimir's Lounge, 700 Drayton St.; 912-721-5002; Main courses from $21.
Here's a Savannah article that I ran across a while back and had stashed away for future reference. Enjoy!
JB
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
By Jacqueline Fitzgerald
Chicago Tribune
July 2, 2006
SAVANNAH, Ga. -- This is a city of delight, not discipline, so when dining, you might as well give in to temptation.
There are other enticements galore--charming old homes and carriage houses, grand buildings with classical porticos, pediments and pillars, jasmine-scented breezes and trees trimmed in Spanish moss.
A visit here, as "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil" author John Berendt wrote, "is like strolling through the rooms of an elegant, open air mansion."
But wandering the streets and squares, you can't help noticing all the opportunities to eat. You can sample pecan candy and peanut brittle at stores along the river. You'll want to visit River Street, and try some of this port city's great seafood. If this is a first-time visit, you're pretty much obliged to stroll through the City Market area, a.k.a. Tourist Central. And it's hard to miss the lines outside Paula Deen's The Lady & Sons, which specializes in down-home Southern cuisine and is a magnet for out-of-towners.
I had been to Savannah before, but this time on a five-day visit I had come to eat--like a local. Amid my own explorations, I decided to ask Savannah citizens for their recommendations.
Antiques dealer Alex Raskin, whose store is at 441 Bull St., got me started ("I have very definite opinions").
For special occasions, he and his wife, a Philly native who lived in Chicago before meeting Raskin, go to Elizabeth on 37th Street.
I was already acquainted with this restaurant, formerly a turn-of-the-century mansion, and my meal there was--sorry to gush, but it's true--one of the best I've ever eaten. The menu changes seasonally and puts fresh twists on traditional favorites such as honey-roasted pork tenderloin or coastal grouper with a sesame-almond crust and peanut sauce. Even if you don't have time to eat an entire meal here, be sure to stop in for a dessert, the most famous being the cream cake.
Raskin also enjoys Walls' Bar-B-Que--"the sine qua non of African-American cooking" -- where he orders the deviled crab.
Wall's was a bit tricky to find, but getting there will acquaint you with the city's lanes, which are not to be confused with alleys. Somehow I expected the crab to have more of a flavorful kick, but the service was relaxed and friendly.
Farther off the tourist trail, Raskin pointed me to the United House of Prayer for All People's Masada Cafe, a church cafe with staples such as baked or fried chicken, dressing, string beans, and macaroni and cheese.
My energy was flagging a bit, so instead of making the trek to Masada, I followed the advice of Raskin's colleague Juliet Bell, who sent me to the Firefly Cafe, a low-key, quiet spot with only a few other diners. There I decided to cut back on calories and went for a tuna salad with Granny Smith apples, red onions, celery and pecans.
Bell also steered me to the Sentient Bean coffee house, where I stopped in for a cold hibiscus-mint tea.
On my own, I was drawn to an old building with stained glass windows that used to be a pharmacy and has been revamped as the Gryphon Tea Room, where I sipped hot Formosa tea and almost finished a fat slice of coconut cake.
And I found another good spot for a sugar high: the retro-looking Leopold's Ice Cream, which opened in 1919. Locals including the likes of Johnny Mercer (he grew up nearby) long have cooled their palates here. Try a scoop of tutti-frutti, peppermint or rose petal.
Students are always good sources for cheap meals and deals. I met Ryan Finnerty, artist and recent graduate of the Savannah College of Art and Design, at the bar of the Moon River Brewing Co., a good venue to grab a bite. Burgers, brats and fried fish filets are a few of the many sandwich choices.
"I'm a big fan of the specials at Queeny's," he said, referring me to the casual soul-food spot. I didn't get a chance to go to Queeny's but found that their fare includes fried chicken, fried shrimp and grouper tacos with sides such as okra and tomatoes, cucumber and onions, and collard greens.
On the other end of the price scale, Robert Morris, director of external affairs for the Georgia Ports Authority, and Elaine Longwater, president of the marketing firm Longwater & Co., both recommended the Sapphire Grill.
Sapphire Grill is a swank supper spot that manages to be both chic and cozy. Because I wanted a light meal, I opted for a glass of wine and a few appetizers: foie gras with rambutan ice cream and banana jam, followed by pan-fried mussels with champagne and caviar. Forgoing an entree is good strategy because it means you have room for dessert--in this case, strawberry shortcake with lavender/almond ice cream.
You can also employ that strategy at The Olde Pink House. A bed-and-breakfast staffer sent me to this 18th Century gem on my last trip, but I'd only had time for a drink. This time I ordered the she-crab soup and pecan pie at the downstairs tavern, instead of the main dining room, and heard longtime pianist/vocalist Gail Thurmond, who entertains there Tuesdays through Sundays.
Savannahians are big on breakfast, and perhaps one of the most famous eateries is Clary's Cafe, where "Midnight" author Berendt struck up a friendship with the glam chanteuse Lady Chablis. An omelet with ham, cheese, onion and green pepper comes with grits, more cheese and a piping-hot biscuit.
On my last morning, though I had run out of dining time, I was still getting advice. After brioche French toast and bacon at Soho South Cafe, a converted garage that also houses an art gallery, I was lingering over my third cup of coffee when a Daisy Buchanan-lookalike in an elegant white hat and long strands of pearls joined me at the breakfast bar.
As swing tunes floated in the background, I learned that her name was McBrier Maloney.
She urged me to get out of town--to one of the relaxed eateries on Savannah's neighboring islands, such as AJ's on Tybee Island.
Maloney also suggested the contemporary Southern cuisine at 700 Drayton, part of the Mansion on Forsyth Park hotel that is also home to Casimir's, a hip lounge that specializes in martinis.
Later that day, the Mansion on Forsyth Park became my last stop before my flight home. Dropping in to escape the heat, I had time for only a drink at Casimir's, but if I'd stayed for dinner, I could have ordered off the 700 Drayton menu and had Maryland crab cake with sauteed shrimp and tasso gumbo over a corn waffle with leek and bourbon cream.
But that's for next time. And I'll have plenty of inside advice on where to go.
IF YOU GO: THE RESTAURANTS
Elizabeth on 37th Street, 105 E. 37th St.; 912-236-5547; Main courses from $23.
Mrs. Wilkes' Dining Room (lunch Monday-Friday only), 107 W. Jones St.; 912-232-5997.
Walls' Bar-B-Que, 515 E. York Lane; 912-232-9754.
Masada Cafe (United House of Prayer for All People), 2301 W. Bay St.; 912-236-9499.
Firefly Cafe, 321 Habersham St.; 912-234-1971.
Sentient Bean, 13 E. Park Ave.; 912-232-4447.
Gryphon Tea Room, 337 Bull St.; 912-525-5880.
Leopold's Ice Cream, 212 E. Broughton St.; 912-234-4442.
Moon River Brewing Co., 21 W. Bay St.; 912-447-0943.
Queeny's to Go Go, 1611 Habersham St.; 912-443-0888.
Sapphire Grill, 110 W. Congress St.; 912-443-9962; Main courses from $25.
The Olde Pink House, 23 Abercorn St.; 912-232-4286. Main courses from $14.95.
Soho South Cafe, 12 W. Liberty St.; 912-233-1633.
AJ's Dockside Restaurant, 1315 Chatham Ave., Tybee Island; 912-786-9533. Main courses from $14.95.
700 Drayton Restaurant/Casimir's Lounge, 700 Drayton St.; 912-721-5002; Main courses from $21.